Our Silk & Wool collection emerged from a deliberate material intervention: a focused study of wool, specifically Pashmina, within the Banarasi weaving ecosystem, a system historically optimised for silk. The objective was not to displace silk, but to examine how wool could function on traditional handlooms, and what structural shifts would be required to allow both fibres to perform with integrity.
Wool introduces a distinct set of challenges. In contrast to silk, which requires high, consistent tension within a dense warp, wool is elastic and responsive to movement. These differences shaped every early decision. Conversations with master weavers were central to identifying potential incompatibilities, from yarn behaviour under tension to long-term loom performance. This dialogue established a framework for experimentation that respected both material logic and the realities of production.
Alongside structural exploration, material sourcing unfolded as a parallel line of inquiry. A range of woollen yarns and existing silk–wool textiles were examined to understand how warmth, softness, and surface character might translate when brought into dialogue with silk. Regional shawls served as tactile references, anchoring early trials in established craft knowledge while opening the work to new possibilities. Equally central was the role of the weavers in this process. Initial caution evolved into active collaboration once the integrity of their ecosystem was assured, and their ability to anticipate long-term behaviour beyond initial samples proved crucial to our outcome.
The collection sits within Tilfi’s broader seasonal exploration. Following our previous collection inspired by Kashmir’s flora, rendered through delicate line drawings, this body of work turns to winter landscapes – restrained and textural. Within these composed surfaces, mountain birds appear as moments of colour and movement, animating the calm.
This chapter of Silk & Wool spans sarees, shawls, stoles and a focused line of apparel, demonstrating the textile’s versatility and its capacity to sculpt, insulate and drape with ease. This intervention reinterprets the Banarasi language through refined patterning and enduring kadhua weaves, extending the craft into contemporary forms through collaboration, material understanding, and continuity.
The collection turns inwards toward the thresholds where tradition evolves by deliberate design. Rather than ruptures or chance occurrences, the collection emerges from intentional departures. Moments where the familiar is re-examined, where legacy opens itself to new interpretations. As a material intervention, Silk & Wool stands as a pioneering advancement, a unique combination and proprietary weave that broadens the expressive language of Banarasi craft, widening their functional possibilities and inviting new audiences into the craft.
The Pashmina wool used in this collection is responsibly sourced from Kashmir, verified by the Pashmina Testing & Quality Certification Centre, and from the Wool Research Association (WRA) in Maharashtra.
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